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Author Topic: H23/H22 hybrid.  (Read 2326 times)

Offline Jeffrey

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H23/H22 hybrid.
« on: 12:46AM 08/22/2004 »
I've seen billions of threads about this on Honda-tech.com but everyone is saying something different.

What I want to do is put a H22 head on an H23 block. Then I could have a 2.3L Vtec engine.

What are the pros and cons?

And can it be turboed after?
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Offline OverLord

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #1 on: 06:47AM 08/22/2004 »
Just like any hybrid, it can be done but should it? You will most likely be better off with and H22.
Pros more displacement,
Cons Worse R/S ratio, possible oil leaks, Internals might not be strong enough, After all is said and done you could have built an h22 for all of the money you spent.
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Offline Dﺁck

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #2 on: 09:27AM 08/28/2004 »
A while back I saw a B18C5 put in a Prelude...

Lighter and stronger...

But quite a bit more expensive.

Hybrids are cool, but I don't think they're very practical,  I'd just force induct an H22, or build an H22 from the ground up.
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Offline Mar_DC2

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #3 on: 12:10PM 09/02/2004 »
B18C5's aren't stronger than an H22 in any aspect of the word.
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Offline Dﺁck

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #4 on: 07:46PM 09/02/2004 »
They are when they're stroked and blown, but then again, I guess that's not a B18 anymore  ???

I wasn't recommending one, just stating what I saw at HIN two years ago...

Obviously it's not the best choice for a lude, or else it would be done more often...

But an H22 in an Integra/Civic is a far worse idea (IMO) than a B18C5 in a 'lude.

Unless your goal is to go in a straight line  :P

I say pump your car full of nitrous so you have have an excuse to get the motor you want :D
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Offline Mar_DC2

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #5 on: 02:40PM 09/04/2004 »
well, if its built and blown then thats a totally different story. but still, a built and blown H22 would be a much better choice in my opinion. but whatever butters your bagel, eh?

actually there are quite a few civics and integras running in SCCA and NASA with H22's. the engine only weighs about 100lbs more than the b-series. the reason people think they handle worse is because they're trying to handle a car that has an H22 engine with suspetion set up for a b-series engine. if someone knows how to properly set up their suspention then they won't have any problems with it.
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Offline PearlJammzz

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #6 on: 01:38AM 09/12/2004 »
I vote a small block chevy motor......easy 6-700 horse all motor, and it'll sound mean as f u c k compared to a 4-banger. Cost per horse would be way cheap as well. Only downside, you'll get like 12mpg fully built. No prob there though as you'll be able to smoke most everyone else out there. They wont suspect that from a lude.

I am a chevy guy if you can't tell, lol.
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Offline Jeffrey

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #7 on: 02:24AM 09/12/2004 »
Well, when I get the money for an engine like that, I'll let you know.

...And even if I did, I doubt I could fit that engine under the hood. ;D
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Offline Mar_DC2

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #8 on: 03:41AM 09/12/2004 »
there's actually a kit to put a chevy small block into a ford focus and convert it to RWD. it would be awesome if you had lots of time and money to waste.
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Offline slomofo

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Re: H23/H22 hybrid.
« Reply #9 on: 08:29PM 10/03/2005 »
*Old thread, but i'm bored off my ass*


H23/VTEC hybrid - No problems

Learn how to run an oil line CORRECTLY, use the H23 gasket, re-use the H23 Belt/Tensioner, block the hole in the bottom of the head CORRECTLY, lower your rev limit, and learn how to tune

H23/VTEC - Problems

REV LIMIT - Your bottom end was designed to handle a certain RPM, the H22 was designed to handle more. Most people rev to 8100 on a motor that was designed to rev to 6500/7500, this causes premature ring failure.

Dowel Pins - It is NOT necessary to re-drill your head to accept the dowel pin, just use ARP head studs or line the head up with your head bolts.

Blocking the oil line in the bottom of the head - Tap the head, then put a threaded plug in it, problem solved.

Head gasket - Non-VTEC

Oil feed line - 1/8" NPT line from sending unit to 1/8" NPT plug behind distributor. DO NOT DRILL A NEW HOLE, THERE'S ALREADY THREE PRE-DRILLED/CAPPED HOLES FROM HONDA.


Quote from: Dﺁck on 07:46PM 09/02/2004
They are when they're stroked and blown, but then again, I guess that's not a B18 anymore ???

I wasn't recommending one, just stating what I saw at HIN two years ago...

Obviously it's not the best choice for a lude, or else it would be done more often...

But an H22 in an Integra/Civic is a far worse idea (IMO) than a B18C5 in a 'lude.

Unless your goal is to go in a straight line :P

I say pump your car full of nitrous so you have have an excuse to get the motor you want :D


B18C5 is an overrated high compression motor that only useless slugs and bandwagoners get. There's a few problems with fitting one in a prelude, one being the engine bay is just to fawking big that you'd have to somehow make mounts to center the engine, then after that's done, you have to get some extended axles, which nobody makes, then you have to figure out how to mount rod linkage instead of the prelude/accord cable linkage. Then comes the wiring, the C5 has a totally different harness than the H23, so you'd have to take the two and make one out of it, run wires for VTEC, knock, and injectors, etc.

Then comes the getting the car to move part... with the exteded axles, the heavier body, and less amount of torque, how would this boat move?

ahhhh yessss.... it's stroked and blown. Stroked to what 92mm? 95mm? either way, it's stroked, that means the redline will have to be lowered from 8500 to somewhere in the 7500 range to accommodate the longer stroke and increased friction on the pistons. Then comes the blower... the blower? Jackson Racing and Vortech, the only two ITR blowers available, since we're fully built, I guess we should be running around 9psi....

Stroked motor, high compression, 9psi, ping ping ping BOOM!

Let's stop making up stories here though.
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